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July 12, 2005

Great review of Per Se over at Kiplog

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050712_veal.jpg
(Photo: Courtesy Paul McCann, of Per Se's Rib-Eye of Nature Fed Veal)

Terrific review of 'Per Se' over at Kiplog. Done with a terrific photographer's eye and a true food lover's palate, it's the next best thing to actually getting to eat there, and a lot less expensive.

Per Se, for those who don't know, is a Manhattan restaurant offering by Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame, which consistently receives a 5 star rating as well as 'best restaurant in the world' in 2003-2004.

Here's a link to the French Laundry cookbook, too. While a beautiful coffee table book and a great representation of perfection in food, don't expect to be able to re-create any of these dishes exactly unless you have serious kitchen chops, a lot of the right equipment, and some serious time and cash to throw at it.

Posted by The Pragmatic Chef at July 12, 2005 8:53 AM
Filed under: Books | Restaurants | Who's Cooking?

Comments

It's times like these I feel so small, such a hillbilly. I can tell you now I'll never attend, this is something far beyond my reach. I do like the idea of setting my hunk of meat on top of the vegetable though. It's so well done, with the sauce out. At least I can get inspiration from the image.

Biggles

Posted by: Dr. Biggles at July 12, 2005 7:50 PM

Hey, don't sell yourself short, Biggles. You could do this kind of stuff with the right training. You've got the passion and the right attitude and believe me, that's a prized commodity in the food biz.

I have the French Laundry cookbook and I love to show it to people to illustrate what the top end of food is. And inspiration that comes from anywhere is a good thing, even if we are smacking ourselves in the head saying "We're not worthy!" as we see it.

It's well worth buying even if you never make a recipe in it, just for the tips that will elevate your dishes.

Posted by: the pragmatic chef™ at July 12, 2005 8:00 PM

Hey man,

I been hip to Keller for years. For whatever reason I'm not intimidated. I have shelves of cookbooks spanning close to 100 years, very cool stuff. I'd love to hang out and cook with anyone.
The part that intimidates me is the restaurant, the part where you are SERVED. I've never been someone who is served. Even stranger is that I don't have any ambition to be served, I don't like it (just like salad).
I remember my last birthday, nearly a year ago. I served 50 people all day long. What I mean by that is that I cooked for 50 people for 9 hours. Every hour I served something from the smoker. All different, each perfect from 3 different cooking mediums. As they left at 10pm they were shaking their heads saying, "Everything you pulled out was perfect, nothing mediocre for 9 hours."
I'd much rather do that then sit at the French Laundry and be served.
Does that make any sense? Or do I need to start hitting people and sit my ass down and have some nice food?

Biggles

Posted by: Dr. Biggles at July 12, 2005 8:33 PM

Oh, that's different! :©)

I don't know, to me part of great service and hosting in general is making people feel welcome. A good server isn't any more happy feeling like an indentured servant than you are feeling like landed gentry, so a good front of house person is always treating you like they'd like to be treated themselves.

I'm more of a backstage kind of guy myself, but eating out really reinforces why the little things you do in the kitchen are so important.

Posted by: the pragmatic chef™ at July 12, 2005 8:57 PM

Ha, the only problem I have with eating out is they want money. Damn man, you made me EAT, now you want me to PAY !?!
My favorite part is where I have a 20'x20' detached garage with my Sunn model 15's and 14 feet of real vinyl to listen to. I feel so much better. If I had a CD of music to put in, I'd have no place to insert. Heh.

Biggles

Posted by: Dr. Biggles at July 12, 2005 9:03 PM

Hey, maybe Thomas would let us take the ties off and wash dishes against the tab afterwards. Best of both worlds...

Posted by: the pragmatic chef™ at July 12, 2005 9:34 PM

Now THAT interests me. It sounds like a heck of a lot more fun.
Yeah.

Posted by: Dr. Biggles at July 12, 2005 10:40 PM

Hey thanks for the compliments on the review.

Biggles, I understand the serving thing, but it doesn't bother me as much as having twelve backwaiters watch you eat. But something about Per Se made me very comfortable. The main server was excellent, as was everyone else, but maybe it was all that wine.

Last week I served about 18 adults and about as many kids, ribs and various other grilled and otherwise prepared veggies. While it was enjoyable, I'm not sure I'd choose it over a meal at the French Laundry.

Posted by: paul at July 13, 2005 1:25 PM

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